Fix Multiple Brands HDMI no-signal and handshake problems

Mixing a Sony TV with a Denon receiver and an Xbox is different from pairing Samsung with Yamaha and a Roku. Each brand names its "Enhanced" mode and CEC differently, so this guide centers on the cross-brand settings that most often break handshakes.

Quick checks to rule out simple issues

Confirm the correct input
Check both the TV input and the AVR/soundbar input. Sony calls CEC "Bravia Sync," Samsung calls it "Anynet+," LG calls it "Simplink"—if one is off, the wrong input can auto-select.
Inspect the HDMI cable
Look for sharp bends, kinks, or loose connectors. Try reseating both ends until they click into place.
Test another HDMI source or display
If you can, plug a known-working device (like a streaming stick) into the same port, or plug your source into a different TV. This quickly tells you which side is misbehaving.
Restart everything
Power off the TV, the source device, and any receiver in between. Unplug them for 30 seconds before turning them back on.

Rebuild the HDMI connection step by step

Start with a direct connection
If you normally run through a receiver or soundbar, temporarily connect the source straight to the TV with a short HDMI cable. This removes one variable while you troubleshoot.
Use the brand-specific high-bandwidth port mode
Sony: set the input to "Enhanced format (VRR)"; Samsung: enable "Input Signal Plus"; LG: toggle "HDMI Deep Color." Do this on the port you are testing.
Match resolution and refresh rate
Set the source to a conservative resolution first—try 1080p or 4K at 60 Hz. Once you see a picture, you can step back up to higher frame rates.
Disable advanced features temporarily
Turn off VRR, ALLM, and deep color modes while testing. These features sometimes cause handshakes to fail until the basics are stable.
Power on in a clean order
Turn on the TV first and let it reach the home screen. Then power on the receiver (if used), and finally the source. Some combinations really do depend on power-up order.

Expert tip: try a different HDMI cable, even if the old one “used to work”

Tip: A surprising number of no‑signal problems end up being a marginal HDMI cable that only fails at 4K or at higher frame rates. Swapping to a short, certified Ultra High Speed HDMI cable is one of the fastest ways to tell whether you are chasing a wiring problem or a device issue.

Scenario example

Scenario example: A Samsung TV with "Input Signal Plus" off feeds a Yamaha receiver, which feeds an Xbox Series X. The Xbox shows "No signal" until you enable Input Signal Plus on that HDMI port, set the Yamaha HDMI output to 8K/Enhanced, and swap to a certified 2.1 cable. After those changes, 4K120 with VRR works across the mixed-brand chain.

When to suspect the TV, source device, or receiver

Source device problem – If the TV shows “No signal” no matter which port you try, but other devices work fine in the same port, the console or streamer may be at fault.
TV problem – If multiple inputs intermittently lose signal for every device, check for a TV firmware update and consider a full factory reset after backing up your picture settings.
Receiver or switch problem – If things only fail when a receiver or HDMI switch is in the chain, connect the source directly to the TV. If that works, review the receiver’s video pass‑through and 4K/8K settings.

If you still cannot get a picture

After verifying cables, ports, and basic resolution settings, persistent “No signal” or black‑screen behavior usually points to a failing port or a deeper compatibility issue. Document which combinations of source, port, and cable work or fail. Having that matrix ready makes support with your or your TV manufacturer far more effective and can help justify a warranty repair or replacement when simple fixes are exhausted.