HDMI "No Signal": step-by-step fixes that actually work
Use this walkthrough when a receiver, soundbar, or HDMI switch is in the middle and you want quick wins before factory resets. It focuses on routing mistakes and EDID/Enhanced-mode toggles that often get overlooked in mixed-brand setups.
Quick checks to rule out simple issues
- Confirm the correct input
Make sure the receiver or switch is on the input you expect, not just the TV. Some AVRs silently fall back to the last used source after power loss. - Inspect the HDMI cable
Look for sharp bends, kinks, or loose connectors. Try reseating both ends until they click into place, especially on the AVR's HDMI Out jack. - Test another HDMI source or display
Move the same cable to a known-working streamer or console, or plug your source into a different TV. If it only fails through the middle box, that box is the bottleneck. - Restart everything
Power off the TV, the source device, and any receiver or switch in between. Unplug them for 30 seconds before turning them back on.
Rebuild the HDMI connection step by step
- Start with a direct connection
If you normally run through a receiver or soundbar, temporarily connect the source straight to the TV with a short HDMI cable. This removes one variable while you troubleshoot. - Put the middle device in "Enhanced"/"8K" mode
On most receivers and switches, the HDMI output needs to be set to Enhanced/8K/4K120 for full bandwidth. Toggle that mode off/on, then retry the chain. - Match resolution and refresh rate
Set the source to a conservative resolution first—try 1080p or 4K at 60 Hz. Once you see a picture, you can step back up to higher frame rates. - Disable extras while testing
Turn off VRR, ALLM, and vendor-specific features like Instant Game Response until you have a stable signal. Add them back one at a time. - Power on in a clean order
Turn on the TV first and let it reach the home screen. Then power on the receiver or switch, and finally the source. Some combinations really do depend on power-up order.
Expert tip: try a different HDMI cable, even if the old one “used to work”
Tip: A surprising number of no-signal problems end up being a marginal HDMI cable that only fails at 4K or at higher frame rates. Swapping to a short, certified Ultra High Speed HDMI cable is one of the fastest ways to tell whether you are chasing a wiring problem or a device issue.
Hardware to stabilize longer AVR runs
Scenario example
Scenario example: A cable box runs through a Denon receiver into HDMI 3 on the TV. It shows "No signal" whenever HDR channels play. Switching the Denon HDMI output to "8K Enhanced," moving the TV cable to the eARC/4K120 port, and using a certified 2.1 cable clears the issue while keeping audio through the receiver.
When to suspect the TV, source device, or receiver
- Source device problem – If the TV shows “No signal” no matter which port you try, but other devices work fine in the same port, the console or streamer may be at fault.
- TV problem – If multiple inputs intermittently lose signal for every device, check for a TV firmware update and consider a full factory reset after backing up your picture settings.
- Receiver or switch problem – If things only fail when a receiver or HDMI switch is in the chain, connect the source directly to the TV. If that works, review the receiver’s video pass‑through and 4K/8K settings.
If you still cannot get a picture
After verifying cables, ports, and basic resolution settings, persistent “No signal” or black‑screen behavior usually points to a failing port or a deeper compatibility issue. Document which combinations of source, port, and cable work or fail. Having that matrix ready makes support with your or your TV manufacturer far more effective and can help justify a warranty repair or replacement when simple fixes are exhausted.