Apple TV shows "No Signal" or a black screen
If your Apple TV goes dark after the logo, drops to "No Signal" when you enable HDR, or flashes black when switching frame rates, the problem is almost always HDMI path stability. The fixes below follow the same order we use in real homes: prove the cable and port, rebuild the chain, then layer back features like HDR10, Dolby Vision, and Match Content.
Quick sanity checks before diving deeper
- Confirm the right HDMI input
Make sure the TV or projector is on the HDMI port with the Apple TV attached. If you use a receiver or soundbar, also confirm its output is on the TV eARC/4K port. - Power cycle in order
Unplug the TV, receiver/soundbar, and Apple TV for 30 seconds. Power the TV first, wait for its home screen, then turn on the receiver, then the Apple TV. This rebuilds the handshake cleanly. - Swap the HDMI cable for a certified one
Marginal cables cause half-completed handshakes, especially when HDR or 4K60 is enabled.
- Try a different HDMI port
Use the TV’s highest-bandwidth port (often labeled 4K120, HDMI 2.1, or eARC). If using a receiver, ensure its HDMI Out is in the enhanced/8K mode. - Check for stuck HDR mode
If the screen is black only with HDR, temporarily set the Apple TV to SDR 4K and Match Content enabled under Settings > Video and Audio.
Rebuild the HDMI chain step by step
- Start with a direct connection
Connect Apple TV straight to the TV with the short certified cable. Leave the receiver or soundbar out for now. If the picture returns, the middle device or its cable is the culprit. - Lock in a stable base mode
On Apple TV, set Resolution to 4K SDR 60Hz. Under Match Content, enable Match Dynamic Range and Match Frame Rate so the box only switches when apps request it. Verify you have a picture for a few minutes. - Add HDR back carefully
Turn on HDR only after SDR is stable. If the TV goes black when HDR is enabled, leave HDR off and re-enable it later once the rest of the chain (receiver/soundbar) is proven. - Reintroduce the receiver/soundbar
Reconnect the receiver’s HDMI Out (eARC/ARC) to the TV’s best port using the certified cable. Put the receiver’s video mode to “Enhanced,” “8K,” or “4K/120.” Then connect Apple TV to the receiver’s highest-bandwidth input. If it fails, try a different input on the receiver. - Disable extras while testing
Turn off VRR/ALLM on the TV, and disable any HDMI-CEC power syncing temporarily. Simplifying the handshake reduces black screens during testing.
If you still get a black screen
- Use the Apple TV test pattern
In Settings > Video and Audio > Check HDMI Connection, run the test. If it fails at the HDR step, keep SDR for now and collect screenshots for support. - Force a lower chroma
In the same menu, set Chroma to 4:2:0. This reduces bandwidth and often stabilizes marginal links. - Replace long or in-wall runs
Long passive HDMI runs often fail at HDR/4K. If you must run longer than ~15 feet, move the Apple TV closer or use an active/fiber 2.1 cable.
- Bypass splitters or switches
Cheap HDMI splitters rarely handle Dolby Vision or 4K60. Remove them entirely during testing. - Factory reset only as a last resort
Apple TV resets rarely solve HDMI handshakes. Exhaust cabling and port options first.
Scenario example: Dolby Vision causes a black flash
You enable Dolby Vision on a 4K TV and immediately see a black screen, but SDR works. Connecting Apple TV directly to the TV with a 2.1 cable and setting it to 4:2:0 lets Dolby Vision run. Moving that same cable to the receiver’s HDMI Out and setting the receiver to 8K/Enhanced keeps Dolby Vision stable with audio intact.
Advanced: dealing with intermittent drops
- Check for 4K120 quirks
If your TV supports 4K120, confirm its input is set to Enhanced and test 4K60 first. Some TVs only allow Dolby Vision at 60 Hz, not 120 Hz. - Update firmware everywhere
Install updates on the TV, receiver, and Apple TV. Vendors frequently patch HDMI handshake bugs. - Try a different input name
Renaming the TV input to "PC" or "Game" can expose the enhanced HDMI mode on some models. - Reduce power-saving features
Disable energy-saving or quick-start modes on the TV and receiver while testing; they can leave HDMI ports in a bad state after wake.
Recommended gear for this fix
When to suspect hardware
- The TV input fails with multiple devices
If other devices also show "No Signal" on the same port, the TV's port might be degrading. - Only one receiver input works reliably
Some AVRs have limited bandwidth on secondary inputs. Stick to the labeled 8K/4K120 port. - Cable damage
Kinks or frayed connectors are common after moving equipment. Replace the cable even if it looks fine.