How to Use an HDMI Switch Without Losing HDR or Dolby Vision

The catch with HDMI switches: a cheap one silently strips HDR, Dolby Vision, and 4K/120Hz to whatever it can handle, and you don't get an error — just a flatter picture. If you're adding a switch because your TV is short on ports, the goal is to pass the full signal untouched. Here's how to pick and set one up so nothing gets downgraded.

Buy the right switch (the part that matters)

1. Match the bandwidth to your needs. For 4K HDR at 60Hz, you need a switch rated for 18 Gbps. For 4K/120Hz, VRR, or 8K, you need a 48 Gbps (HDMI 2.1) switch — most cheap switches are 18 Gbps and will cap a PS5/Xbox at 4K60.
2. Confirm it lists your formats explicitly. Look for "Dolby Vision," "HDR10+," "4K120," "VRR," and "eARC passthrough" in the spec. If a switch doesn't name them, assume it strips them.
3. Powered beats unpowered. A switch with its own power adapter holds the handshake far better than a bus-powered one, especially with multiple 4K HDR sources.
4. Avoid auto-switching-only models if you have handshake trouble — manual selection is more stable.

Set it up so nothing downgrades

1. Certified cables on every hop. Source → switch and switch → TV must both carry the full bandwidth. A marginal cable on either side strips HDR or drops the signal. Use certified Ultra High Speed (48 Gbps) cables for 4K120.
2. Power the switch on first, then sources, then the TV — so the EDID negotiates with everything present.
3. Set each source to its full output (PS5 enable 120Hz/VRR; Apple TV 4K SDR + Match Content). The switch only passes what the source sends.
4. Turn on the TV input's enhanced mode (LG Deep Color, Samsung Input Signal Plus, Sony Enhanced) for the port the switch feeds.

The eARC catch

Most HDMI switches do not pass eARC back to a soundbar/receiver — eARC is a return channel, and a switch sits on the input side. If you need eARC audio, keep the soundbar/receiver on the TV's dedicated eARC port and use the switch only for video sources. (ARC vs eARC covers why the return channel works this way.) Don't expect a standard switch to route eARC.

If HDR/Dolby Vision still drops through the switch

• It's almost always the switch's bandwidth ceiling. An 18 Gbps switch can't pass 4K120 or some Dolby Vision modes — you need a 48 Gbps switch.
• Power-cycle the chain (switch, sources, TV; switch first) to reset a stale EDID.
• Test the source straight into the TV — if HDR works direct but not through the switch, the switch is the limiter.

FAQ

Why did my HDMI switch kill Dolby Vision? It doesn't pass that format or bandwidth. Buy a switch that explicitly lists Dolby Vision and 4K120 (a 48 Gbps / HDMI 2.1 switch), not a basic 18 Gbps one.

Can an HDMI switch do 4K/120Hz? Only a 48 Gbps (HDMI 2.1) switch with certified cables on both hops. Most cheap switches cap at 4K60.

Does an HDMI switch pass eARC to my soundbar? Usually not — eARC is a return channel. Keep the soundbar on the TV's eARC port and use the switch for video sources only.

HDR works direct but not through the switch. The switch is the limiter — its bandwidth is too low or it's stripping the format. Upgrade to a certified 48 Gbps switch.